Suspension – Quattroporte3

or “shocks and springs” for US readers. I.e. the whole enchilada as far as wheel control goes (aside from torsion/anti sway bars).

While the car was being prepped, I had the new dampers re-valved. Öhlins dampers have the feature of being able to be tweaked and tuned to any specific response curve desired. By changing the metal washers that regulate oil flow they can make them super stiff for racing, or very relaxed and soft for cruising. On top of this, there is a click adjuster on each damper that allows it to be tuned within a wide range determined by the internal valving.

Mine had been set up a bit too harsh, and the click adjuster didn’t allow enough adjustment to soften up the ride, so it was back to the bench to re-valve the units.

The guru himself gave a quick introduction to how these dampers work and what makes them so much better than anything else out there, as well as why a range of sports cars are delivered with Öhlins as standard.

Damper Dave explains the theory and operation behind Öhlins dampers

After the new valves are configured for the desired response, the dampers are filled with a special oil and then put on a dyno to test. Mine turned out a response curve that perfectly matches the OEM dampers, yet can be tuned via the click adjuster to offer a much firmer or softer ride, whichever is preferred. All of this while the damper is on the car, simply by reaching a hand under and turning the adjuster wheel one way or the other.

filling the damper with oil, taking care no bubbles remain

Back on the car, and the ride was completely transformed. Previously the front and rear end felt almost like two different cars due to the difference in response, now the car felt like one solid whole and the front matches the rear perfectly.

Last thing to do is to dial in the ride height, done by adjusting the spring preload. If you look at the picture above you can see the spring seat is actually a threaded ring that can be adjusted along the length of the damper tube, and is used to fine tune ride height and spring preload. My car is riding a bit too low at the default setting.

If you have a QP3 and are interested in a set of dampers like these, let me know and I’ll see what I can arrange :-).

I actually remembered to take the car to it’s M.O.T. review (biannual road-worthiness check performed on all vehicles in the EU and Europe) within the deadline this time.

Getting there early, I chatted with a mechanic as I watched several cars come in, go in to the shop and up on the lift for their check.

Thus my consternation when the guy who was slated to check my car got in, fired her up, and then went out onto the street and floored it, rapidly disappearing in the distance. I casually asked the service manager if this was standard procedure when performing the check, he seemed surprised and shocked himself and just said “no….” (the dots were his).

Thankfully my car came back after a few minutes, the mechanic sitting behind the wheel with a largish grin on his face. I guess the car passed that part of the test…. (my dots).

Everything checked out ok with a few exceptions. He said the car seemed to be in really good shape and condition overall, and was surprised it’s as old as it is.

To fix:

Rear wheel bearings, driver side. I’ll do both sides to keep things balanced and even. Will have to find someone to help, as this is a job requiring both special tools and a workshop (lift, compressed air, hydraulic press, and more). Not to mention experience. The QP3 rear suspension looks an awful lot like a Jaguar, I’m pretty sure they’re identical. Of course, *which* Jaguar, I don’t know. Still, the inboard brakes, anti sway stags and other telltale components, all mounted in a self contained subframe riding on bushings, pretty much gives it away.

Parking brake – is only working on one side. Needs to be adjusted. Another typical Jaguar rear suspension detail (inboard brakes in the rear, with separate calipers and pads for the hand brake).

Battery – the battery tray has a small metal clamp that holds the lip on the base of the battery. Except that many modern batteries have no lip for it to grip. In the event of a collision, the battery can fly forwards, tumbling around in the engine room (right above hot manifolds). He suggested tying it down with a strap or similar.

Speedometer. My speedo wasn’t working when I got the car originally, and the state inspectors went over the entire car before approving it as road worthy when I imported it. They seemed to think it was ok without a speedo then (everyone has GPS anyway, and it’s more accurate), but this guy said I need to fix it. It’s a VDO, same as used in Porsches in the 1980s. I had hoped that when I restored the sending unit connected to the transmission’s output shaft, it would work. No dice. Cleaning the contacts and molex connectors hasn’t helped either. I pulled and checked the speedo itself, but it shows no obvious problems like a burnt component or broken solder joint. I did find, however, that a gear had turned all gooey and crumbled up. I guess that explains why my trip teller and odometer had stopped working, but still doesn’t explain the speedometer itself. The other instruments all work, so I’m tempted to rule out a bad connection, because the wires are all bundled together.

I’ve ordered parts for the wheel bearings and will need to find someone who can do the work, and have had several attempts at fixing the speedo. Not sure what to do, if I should buy a new speedometer, sending unit, or both. Bought a nylon belt with fastener to take care of the battery, and will need to have a closer look at the parking brake assembly soon.

Deadline is end of June to have everything fixed and approved.

Category: Suspension

Racing dampers

M.O.T/DMV – Road worthiness check