Running rough

After the carburetor rebuild, I had expected the engine to purr like a kitten and scream like a race car. This is a Maserati, after all.

Such was not to be the case.

Dialing in the correct air:fuel mixture with a Gunson Colortune seems straightforward enough, as well as mighty clever. You can actually see what’s going on in the combustion chamber while the motor runs. Pure genius. I first disconnected the air pump and vacuum system as per the service manual, but found it nearly impossible to find a good (and stable) idle speed as well as the proper light-blue flame in the cylinders.

One issue was that I was only seeing combustion every 1 or 2 seconds on average, the rest of the time all I could see was a spark. With the colortune it’s WYSIWYG, so something was wrong.

The other issue, which later revealed itself to be dependent on the first, was that several cylinders were impossible to get a nice bright blue flame by tweaking the idle mixture screws. I did as best I could and the car ran ok, just not as smoothly as I wanted.

At higher rpms I was able to observe continuous combustion and with an appropriate color. So it seemed that the acceleration circuit was working correctly.

Still, the car would at times idle a bit roughly and still felt a bit less powerful than expected, and the number one cause of carb problems and uneven running is air leaks. The timing had already been checked and set by a mechanic during one of the previous dyno runs.

My car is a US spec one, meaning it’s fitted with emissions equipment in a (futile) attempt to reduce its substantial contribution to global warming. I’d like to say I do my part, after all I did fit catalytic converters on the car.

A friend came by and we mapped out the vacuum system, tracing each hose and line in an effort to pinpoint any potential problem or leak.

There’s a diagram on the inner fender, passenger side, but basically there’s a  cam cover breather hose and recirculated fuel/air pipe off of cylinders 1 & 2, and there are hoses forming a loop off the front and rear of the intake manifold. These are controlled by 2 solenoids , the one closest to the firewall activates the vacuum advance on the distributor, the other appears to be connected to the charcoal canisters. There are butterfly plates to close the air input in trumpets of air box when cold, until the engine warms up, and charcoal vapor canisters to collect unburned vapors off the carbs and cam covers.

Following the vacuum lines with the engine running, we quickly discovered that the solenoid that controls vacuum advance wasn’t doing its job. It wasn’t clear if it had reached retirement age or was on strike, but by bypassing it (easy enough as there already was a tee there to connect from the solenoid to the hvac controls in the car) the idle smoothed out instantly. That one small adjustment, and suddenly Silvia sounded a lot more like a Maserati!

Smog system solenoids
Smog system solenoids

Without the help of the vacuum advance, the mixture in the cylinders is ignited too late in the Otto cycle to make power, allowing for the speed of the engine. That explains why at higher rpms the engine was running better, as the mechanical advance takes over for the vacuum advance used at idle. When we bypassed the solenoid, effectively putting the vacuum advance “on” at all times, the idle smoothed out and we were able to tune the carburetors for ideal air/fuel mixture.

Our assumption received further confirmation when we hooked up the Colortune again and were easily able to dial in picture perfect blue-flame combustion on all cylinders. Some were easier than others, it might be that the adjustment screws need replacing.

With this taken care of, next up is to register consumption and power over the next few weeks and then revisit the timing to get it as optimal as possible.

Carburetor rebuild

After a day at the dyno shop, their recommendations were to fix the leaking exhaust and clean and rebuild the carbs. No. 2 carb was leaking, and they adjusted the others as best they could. The car felt peppier and had more power, but there’s always room for improvement.

I pulled the carbs off of the manifold, the job is pretty straightforward. Remove the air box and lay it off to the side, unbolt the trumpets from the air box baseplate, disconnect the vacuum & breather hoses at the same time.

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Remove the choke wire on the drivers side and disconnect the microswitch connector. Pull and plug the fuel line from the fuel rail input. Loosen the hose clamps on each fuel inlet line and remove the fuel rail. At this point you can loosen the nuts holding the carb baseplates down and remove the carbs. Note that carb 1 and 2 (counting forwards from the firewall) hold each other in place, meaning you may have to remove carb 1 before 2. I started with carb 4 and worked my way backwards when I discovered this the hard way.

IMG_7911

IMG_7916  IMG_7944 IMG_7938

Inspect the phenolic riser plates for wear and unevenness, anything that can let ‘unmetered*’ air through is a bad thing and will cause endless headaches, bad running and a general all around bad mood.

Plug the manifold openings to prevent unwanted objects from finding their way into the cylinders. That would really ruin your day.

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Coming up: carb teardown.

*unmetered – a carburetor is essentially a controlled air leak into the engine. It mixes a precise amount of fuel with the air that flows through the venturii to provide an optimal fuel:air mixture. Any air entering the system by other means, ie via a leak, will unbalance the ratio and render all tuning and tweaking moot.

2 C8H18 + 25 O2 → 16 CO2 + 18 H2O

Still working on going through and getting a good setting with the fuel system.

The fuel pump is sorted……..it was simply a blocked internal filter causing the problem. Have also fitted a new short fuel line between the pumps and 3-way-valve as it was beginning to crack.

A specialist has gone through the carburetors to make sure all settings are correct, or at least seem sane, before the car is put on a dynamometer in a few weeks to measure power output and fine tune the engine. The PPO (prior to previous owner) had overhauled and synced the carbs while he had the car, and Webers are usually set-and-forget, but I’ve learned that a whole lot of strangeness can happen when someone gets their hands on an unusual automobile, if even for only a few months…

He didn’t find anything obviously mis-matched in the carbs, or any serious imbalance, just way out of tune and general wear – not one specific thing. He says that a full setup is the only way to improve things and thinks that the poor running (ref. earlier posts here about the same issue) is a combination of numerous general wear items (carb jets etc) and no one big issue.

I had a suspicion she was running a bit rich, judging both from the two black spots on the rear wall of the garage as well as the amount of soot expelled from the exhaust. That would also affect acceleration and power in general. So the specialist’s findings match well with my own observations and thoughts. His adjustments did result in a nice improvement, but there’s still more to be done.

When we get her running according to spec, we should see somewhere in the neighborhood of 280hp when all is said and done. I’ve been considering removing all the US smog equipment, but that would mean new cams, which is more work than I’m prepared for at this point.

Right now I’m more interested in getting the repaint done and actually taking her out for a drive!

Dual Facet Fuel pumps. Originally Bendix.
Dual Facet Fuel pumps. Originally Bendix.

To Do list

The car was sold as a “rolling restoration”, and had been extensively restored and cared for by the BPO (before previous owner). As far as I know the PO mainly just enjoyed the car (as have I, thus far).

It runs, in fact it started up on the very first attempt after 3 months of waiting at the docks, shipping to Europe and waiting to be picked up. As the seller quipped, “I don’t know of any other 30 year old Italian exotic that could manage to do that”. Good point.

That said, it does have some rough spots, and needs more than a little TLC to bring it back to looking and running its best. While the engine, suspension and parts of the drivetrain have all been carefully restored, the transmission hasn’t been touched. And the paint is showing it’s age, with a hint of a few small rust bubbles here and there on the wheel arches and lower door panels.

I went over the car when I received it and started making a list of things I wanted to address. After having had and used the car for a while now, I’m probably going to change this list somewhat, having learned to live with some things as idiosyncrasies and others as being more important to fix.

In no particular order:

  • transmission & torque converter rebuild
  • bare metal respray (eliminating rust spots, smoothing out the bodywork, remounting glass and chrome, polishing same)
  • fix radio and antenna (this is way up high on my list!)
  • fix sun visors (they sag)
  • restore/condition leather interior
  • restore/replace cracked wood veneer on dashboard shelf
  • check fuel pumps, change filters if necessary
  • replace fuel filter/regulator
  • replace spark plug wires
  • repaint cam covers
  • go through wiring to get all courtesy lights and stuff working correctly
  • fix speedometer (probably pulse send unit or toothed gear on sender)
  • buy a scissors jack that will support the car and fit in the trunk
  • possibly, maybe, remove US emissions stuff from the engine
  • rebuild/lubricate windshield wiper motors
  • rebuild/lubricate electric window motors
  • replace rubber sealant around trunk
  • remove all sound isolation material, replace with non-flammable and non-hygroscopic alternative
  • re-fabricate rear trunk panel, the one that hides the gas tank
There’s more, this is just off the top of my head.
Any help or advice that can be offered on any of the above points is greatly appreciated!

Filter King

No, we’re not talking cigarettes here.

Filter King, made by Malpassi in Italy, is a brand of old(er) fashioned fuel filters with built in regulators.

For those of you who like a mental image to accompany your text, think something similar to an IV bag on a hanger, but smaller, in metal and glass, and with a filter inside the glass.

Filter King Fuel Pressure Regulator & Filter Bowl
Filter King, sans filter
Filter King, with filter

Apparently the slightest hint of H2O in the gasoline is enough to start corroding the fiddly bits where the actual regulator mechanism lives, eventually causing the 2.5 psi the Weber 42 DCNF need to run perfectly to rise (thus far) to 6.5 psi (and beyond?), which will overflow the carburetor floats and flood gasoline down into the cylinder intakes. Needless to say, not only will the engine not run well, there is a real risk of fire.

And you thought the car got horrible milage to begin with….

The fuel pressure gauge I installed between regulator and carbs (“not for permanent installation”, although it wasn’t specified whether it was the heat from the engine that could melt the fragile plastic part, or rather that gasoline that would melt through the innards before sending them, half liquified, towards the carburetors) showed a perfect 2.5 psi, regardless of pump used (the QP3 has dual, or redundant fuel pumps. Maybe a carry over from the earlier days when many Maserati models had dual fuel tanks, and a pump for each, or perhaps a nod to the aircraft industry and safety, but probably just an acknowledgement of the fact that they have a tendency to fail).

2.5 psi
Good
Not good

Trolling the web I’ve found more than a few regulators, and have been recommended to go with the 85mm size, even though Maserati outfitted these cars with the 67mm model as standard. More filter area, and a greater reserve for a very thirsty engine. The mounting holes and bracket are the same.