Starter motor

The car arrived when I bought it with an extra starter motor. Foresight?

I had both rebuilt shortly after rebuilding the transmission with original OEM parts. The shop didn’t comment on them when they did the job (in fact initially they couldn’t do the job at all because they didn’t know where to source the parts), and when I picked up the car she fired right up with the characteristic Mopar whine.

Only a day later, while picking up someone at the airport, the starter failed again and left us stranded. So we got a tow back to the shop who swapped starter motors, the original one going into the trunk for later analysis. The shop proceeded to blame the problem on crappy parts, the parts place claims they are US OEM and the best quality available.

That ‘later analysis’ took some time to perform, as since the car started (mostly) fine, there were other things to attend to, so it was put on the back burner until later.

After installing a new cable and still not starting (yes, I did use a booster since the battery was slowly being drained), I figured I could install the starter motor that had only been in the car for a day. Since both are identical and both were rebuilt at the same time with the same parts, it seemed reasonable to assume that it would work better than the one in the car, even if it still gave the occasional hiccup.

I like to try to learn from my mistakes (but by no means manage as often as I’d like), and figured that before jacking up and crawling under the car it would be a good idea to bench test the starter. So we clamped it in a vice and provided it with 12+ volts, shorted the terminals and got “click, click”.

Hmm. Spot a trend here?

Imagine my delight at having figured that out *before* installing it in the car!

It seems about time for that “later analysis”, so the starter went back to the shop for dissection. Two days later the verdict was ready – the solenoid was burned out. After only 1 day of use from new. I guess some things just aren’t made like the used to be.

Examining the options, it seems the Nippon Denso reduction starters are drop-in replacements for the original ones, weigh half as much, offer higher cranking power and require less juice. Sounds like a win-win situation all around.

Looked over the models available and narrowed my choices down to three units.

Tuff Stuff

prd_zm_8849

MSD DynaForce (it’s RED!, although on closer inspection looks an awful lot like the Tuff Stuff starter above, and it’s impossible to see once installed anyway)

5098_qtr_view

RobbMC Performance

3005_4x

As I wanted to stick to a budget for this restoration, I went with the most affordable option first, thinking I could always get one of the fancy ones later if it doesn’t work. Although I really have to admire RobbMC’s customer service and information along the way, even though I decided not to get their starter. I might get one anyway, they were really so helpful, and their starter seems really to be a cut above the others and offers flexibility in configuration that no one else does.

What a difference between old and new!

New starter on bottom
New starter on bottom

Still wanting to live a little dangerously, I installed it without bench testing it first. All of these after market starters have tried to improve on the original design and make things easier to access by mounting the terminals on the top when mounted in the ‘normal’ Mopar position. Since mine goes on the other side of the engine, the terminals are on the bottom, facing the pavement. Not a big deal, but not what I’d prefer.

It’s amazing how tiny and light it is in comparison with the original.

Anyway, I bolted it up, connected all the wiring and plunked myself down behind the wheel.

Turned key…..

“Clackety clickity k-k-k-k-k-k”
Sounds a lot like a ratcheting noise.

Tried again and the engine turned over!

But very slowly. Too slowly to be of any use.

Doh. Battery is dead. Too many tries previously, even the booster can’t provide enough juice to help.

So I’m off to buy a battery charger.

Stay tuned.

New starter motor cable

arrived from Italy recently, thanks Campana!

Starter motor cable
Starter motor cable

Having sleuthed our way to the cable as the culprit for the starting problems, I was really looking forward to getting this installed into the car.

The old one was completely drenched in 34 years of oil, grease and road grime, and showed signs of corrosion.

A little bit of adjusting at the starter motor end and we’re ready to go (unfortunately some of the grime from the old cable managed to escape and attach itself to the new one):

IMG_9420

Maserati decided in classic Italian tradition to mount the starter motor on the passenger’s (right) side of the engine, whereas the ‘standard’ Chrysler/Mopar placement is on the driver’s (left) side. Since the cable connectors are on the outer side of the starter motor, this arrangement works pretty well, although it is a tight fit to get the locking washers and nuts on and tightened down. Removing the tire helps.

I probably don’t want to know, but suspect that the brake line heat shield is lined with asbestos. Sure looks and acts like it. Yuck. Of course I managed to dislodge half of it while removing and refitting the cables.

New cable installed
New cable installed

Drumroll…….

 

 

 

Turn key……

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Click click 🙁

Well, sh*t.

 

Start problems

Sylvia has been giving me intermittent starting problems the last few years. Rarely has it been so bad that she wouldn’t start at all, but it’s gotten progressively worse.

While on my way to catch a ferry after visiting friends in Amsterdam I stopped in Germany to get gas. I wasn’t on a very tight schedule, but did want to arrive at the terminal in time to relax a little and enjoy the trip. After filling up, the car refused to start. The dreaded (but by now familiar) “click-click” happened each and every time. Usually after a few attempts the engine fires up, but here in the middle of nowhere, Germany, a half an hour later I was starting to sweat a little.

A nice old man was kind enough to give me a jump (but the problem isn’t a low battery), Sylvia finally took the hint and roared to life. I didn’t turn the engine off again until I was on the ferry!

So it was time to get to the bottom of this. A fellow owner had made his own investigation and caught the pinion gear red-handed stopping before it engaged the ring gear. At the time both of us thought that the “click” sound was due to the gears hitting each other, but not continuing past that point to engage. Later we discovered that they never got that far.

I started by measuring the voltage in the battery and checking the starter relay. 13.8v in the battery, the relay was worn (apparently arcing) but worked fine and passed current.

Next up was to check all grounding points. Each one showed good and constant ground, meaning that the problem lies elsewhere.

I would have suspected the starter motor, but it’s been rebuilt. In fact both of them have (always good to have a spare), with US sourced OEM parts (see one of my previous posts about the same, found here).

The detective work continued by measuring the voltage at the starter when cranked. The wire from the battery to the starter is huge, probably 1 guage or so. The one to the solenoid is smaller, and is spliced to a wire that leads into the cabin and the relay. We found that the splice was stealing over 1/2 a volt, and by the time it got to the starter solenoid there were only 9.7 – 9.8vDC, while there should be at the very minimum 10.5 – 11vDC to engage the solenoid and trigger the starter.

Judging from the looks of the cable, together with its age, it’s past due for replacement. A new one is on order from Campana in Italy. If the problem persists, at least one variable has been eliminated.

Will it start..?

First drive

I’m not going to quote the Joe Walsh song, we all know it and it’s horribly cliché. But it’s the only song I know about a Maserati (if you happen to know of another one, leave a comment!).

No, I didn’t make it up to 185, have to keep things real, as well as within local speed limits.

"...does 185", but *we're* not doing 185. Not today.
“…does 185”, but *we’re* not doing 185. Not today.

Sylvia performed marvelously, aside from a temperamental starter – I thought that was fixed?!? I noticed at the start of my drive that there were a lot of rattles, creaks and noises in general. After a while everything seemed to settle down, and even later things were perfect, the only noise coming from the shifter badge that rattles once in a while. I notice that the asphalt quality has a lot to say as far as noise levels in the cabin go, and taking a few really nice long drives helped shake things down and allowed everything to settle in.

The first drive was in a downpour, and I was happy to note that not a single drop of water entered the cabin anywhere. Dry as a bone. The new seals perform perfectly, and also help to keep noise out.

A long drive on the freeway was uneventful, the car performing admirably, cruising along smoothly and rapidly for hours on end. Because of the comfort of the interior, you don’t really notice the acceleration or the true speed you’re traveling. 80mph feels more like 50. Hit the gas and you can see the speedometer gain rapidly, but the acceleration feels effortless. It’s very refined.

IMG_7516

There’s still a bit of vibration between 2200 – 2800 rpm in 3rd gear. One guy I spoke with said he suspects it’s the prop shaft and commented it immediately when we went for a drive. He thinks it probably happens in 1st and 2nd as well, but isn’t as noticeable at lower speeds. It’s not a huge deal, and the prop shaft went back into the car in the exact same orientation as when we took it out to overhaul the transmission (we marked it), but it is something I’d like to have checked and make sure it’s correctly balanced.

The new front headlights are brilliant! Literally. They light up the road so much better and are extremely precise in their throw, you can see exactly what area they cover perfectly, and it’s exactly the area needed to drive at night. The high beams only increase the reach and are nicely constrained to the road and shoulder. Kudos again to Daniel Stern, this is one of the best improvements I’ve made to the car.

Hit a double rainbow on the last drive, don’t know if you can see it. It’s lovely how the water beads on the car and simply rolls off.

Double rainbow over  autumn colors
Double rainbow over autumn colors

I’m very pleased with the color, it suits the car so much better than the purplish blue it was painted in before, and the depth and richness of the Blu Sera is truly striking.

All in all I’m extremely satisfied, and really happy to have the car back on the road.

Please don’t be tempted to think that this is the end of this blog – this is after all a 33 year old car! Next up is to put her on the dyno and see how many horses have escaped over the years, and if we can get them all back in the corral…

Comments are open!

Fiat lux!

and there was neither Fiat, nor Lexus. I count one Maserati, one Jensen, a Lamborghini and a Ferrari.

But thanks to the extremely knowledgable people at Daniel Stern Lighting (Daniel Stern), Sylvia now has a new wiring system and high output bulbs in place of the old, barely-visible-in-the-dark headlights. So light – there was indeed light, and plenty of it.

The difference is striking.

Clear and bright
Clear and bright
double trouble
double trouble

Daniel knows his stuff, and also had recommendations for replacement bulbs to provide better output and longer life for other areas of the car: blinkers, brakes, tail lights and more. Highly recommended!

 

Starter motor

Having replaced the starter motor in the car with the one thoughtfully provided by the PO when I overhauled the transmission, I was surprised to be getting the “click – nothing” sound after only 6 or so months.

It can mean many things, but seeing as how I was getting power, all instruments checked out, and I could hear the starter relay clicking, the finger seemed to be pointing at the starter. Sometimes she would start right up on the very first try, other times it took a few repeat attemps, and lately I had on occasion been spending 10 or 15 minutes before suddenly it would catch and the engine would roar to life.

I delivered the starter motor I had pulled from the car to a local shop. Thankfully Maserati did the same thing here that they had done with the transmission – sourced it from Chrysler. Turns out they’ve used the same basic design from the 60’s up to about the 90’s. Of course Maserati also managed to mount it in such a way (upside down and backwards) that any condensation, rain or other moisture collects inside the starter, guaranteeing it won’t last for too long before needing to be replaced or repaired.

For reference, it’s a 1.8HP Chrysler starter, part number 4091950, also used in the 1980 Dodge 1/2 pickup truck.

The parts shop was unable to find the rebuild kit needed (not a lot of American cars here), so I obliged and ordered 2 rebuild kits and 2 solenoids in order to repair them both. Found them at “Alternator & Starter Parts Wholesale” www.ASPWholesale.com, part no: 66-302 (solenoid) and CH-79-1100 (brush holder, rings, washers, brushes, the whole kit). Total price $71.82 plus shipping for all parts for both starters. Not a bad deal.

Got the car into the shop that had the extra starter, brought along the parts, and this afternoon was able to drive out with a decidedly easier-to-start car. And an extra rebuilt starter. Always nice to have a spare in reserve.

Getting another thing done on the car is always a reason to celebrate, that combined with the cold but dry weather brought us to a local establishment offering a good old fashioned by-hand car wash. Well, they use hoses and sprayers and all sorts of special products, but most importantly they all loved the car :-).

She’s clean, she starts, she’s garaged. Not a bad start for autumn.

MOT/DMV updates

The battery is now strapped down to the battery bracket. Rather unnecessary if you ask me (I know, no one asked) with an AGM type battery – it can be mounted in any position, and there isn’t anything to leak out in the event of an accident.

http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-basics.html

The parking brake now works on both sides – this design has additional calipers on the rear discs on both sides, with a wire leading to the emergency brake handle in the car. With 2 tonnes to stop in a potential situation, both calipers really need to do their job in order to have any chance at stopping the car.

The speedometer is working now, it turned out that the generator or elbow angle was not working correctly. We tried hooking it up directly to the output of the transmission and suddenly everything worked.

Although it appears that the speedo, while working, is showing the wrong speed – 100km/h shows as about 60. Could be that one of the poles of the generator isn’t working as it should. Time to order a replacement.

M.O.T/DMV – Road worthiness check

I actually remembered to take the car to it’s M.O.T. review (biannual road-worthiness check performed on all vehicles in the EU and Europe) within the deadline this time.

Getting there early, I chatted with a mechanic as I watched several cars come in, go in to the shop and up on the lift for their check.

Thus my consternation when the guy who was slated to check my car got in, fired her up, and then went out onto the street and floored it, rapidly disappearing in the distance. I casually asked the service manager if this was standard procedure when performing the check, he seemed surprised and shocked himself and just said “no….” (the dots were his).

Thankfully my car came back after a few minutes, the mechanic sitting behind the wheel with a largish grin on his face. I guess the car passed that part of the test…. (my dots).

Everything checked out ok with a few exceptions. He said the car seemed to be in really good shape and condition overall, and was surprised it’s as old as it is.

To fix:

Rear wheel bearings, driver side. I’ll do both sides to keep things balanced and even. Will have to find someone to help, as this is a job requiring both special tools and a workshop (lift, compressed air, hydraulic press, and more). Not to mention experience. The QP3 rear suspension looks an awful lot like a Jaguar, I’m pretty sure they’re identical. Of course, *which* Jaguar, I don’t know. Still, the inboard brakes, anti sway stags and other telltale components, all mounted in a self contained subframe riding on bushings, pretty much gives it away.

Suspension
Looks suspiciously Jag to me. Can anyone reliably identify it? (photo: William Abraham)

Parking brake – is only working on one side. Needs to be adjusted. Another typical Jaguar rear suspension detail (inboard brakes in the rear, with separate calipers and pads for the hand brake).

Battery – the battery tray has a small metal clamp that holds the lip on the base of the battery. Except that many modern batteries have no lip for it to grip. In the event of a collision, the battery can fly forwards, tumbling around in the engine room (right above hot manifolds). He suggested tying it down with a strap or similar.

Image
Battery needs to be secured

Speedometer. My speedo wasn’t working when I got the car originally, and the state inspectors went over the entire car before approving it as road worthy when I imported it. They seemed to think it was ok without a speedo then (everyone has GPS anyway, and it’s more accurate), but this guy said I need to fix it. It’s a VDO, same as used in Porsches in the 1980s. I had hoped that when I restored the sending unit connected to the transmission’s output shaft, it would work. No dice. Cleaning the contacts and molex connectors hasn’t helped either. I pulled and checked the speedo itself, but it shows no obvious problems like a burnt component or broken solder joint. I did find, however, that a gear had turned all gooey and crumbled up. I guess that explains why my trip teller and odometer had stopped working, but still doesn’t explain the speedometer itself. The other instruments all work, so I’m tempted to rule out a bad connection, because the wires are all bundled together.

Broken speedometer gear
Broken gear
VDO
VDO gauges

I’ve ordered parts for the wheel bearings and will need to find someone who can do the work, and have had several attempts at fixing the speedo. Not sure what to do, if I should buy a new speedometer, sending unit, or both. Bought a nylon belt with fastener to take care of the battery, and will need to have a closer look at the parking brake assembly soon.

Deadline is end of June to have everything fixed and approved.

To Do list

The car was sold as a “rolling restoration”, and had been extensively restored and cared for by the BPO (before previous owner). As far as I know the PO mainly just enjoyed the car (as have I, thus far).

It runs, in fact it started up on the very first attempt after 3 months of waiting at the docks, shipping to Europe and waiting to be picked up. As the seller quipped, “I don’t know of any other 30 year old Italian exotic that could manage to do that”. Good point.

That said, it does have some rough spots, and needs more than a little TLC to bring it back to looking and running its best. While the engine, suspension and parts of the drivetrain have all been carefully restored, the transmission hasn’t been touched. And the paint is showing it’s age, with a hint of a few small rust bubbles here and there on the wheel arches and lower door panels.

I went over the car when I received it and started making a list of things I wanted to address. After having had and used the car for a while now, I’m probably going to change this list somewhat, having learned to live with some things as idiosyncrasies and others as being more important to fix.

In no particular order:

  • transmission & torque converter rebuild
  • bare metal respray (eliminating rust spots, smoothing out the bodywork, remounting glass and chrome, polishing same)
  • fix radio and antenna (this is way up high on my list!)
  • fix sun visors (they sag)
  • restore/condition leather interior
  • restore/replace cracked wood veneer on dashboard shelf
  • check fuel pumps, change filters if necessary
  • replace fuel filter/regulator
  • replace spark plug wires
  • repaint cam covers
  • go through wiring to get all courtesy lights and stuff working correctly
  • fix speedometer (probably pulse send unit or toothed gear on sender)
  • buy a scissors jack that will support the car and fit in the trunk
  • possibly, maybe, remove US emissions stuff from the engine
  • rebuild/lubricate windshield wiper motors
  • rebuild/lubricate electric window motors
  • replace rubber sealant around trunk
  • remove all sound isolation material, replace with non-flammable and non-hygroscopic alternative
  • re-fabricate rear trunk panel, the one that hides the gas tank
There’s more, this is just off the top of my head.
Any help or advice that can be offered on any of the above points is greatly appreciated!